Walking a section of the medieval Via Francigena between Camaiore and Sarzana exposes a gritty side of Tuscany often absent from postcards. Instead of the iconic cypress-lined ridges and white gravel roads found south of Siena, this route runs alongside the Apuan Alps, which bear visible scars from two millennia of marble mining. The landscape is dominated by giant cubes of stone waiting to be transformed into countertops, while hikers navigate narrow asphalt shoulders shared with local traffic.
The author joined a friend for approximately 50 miles of her sabbatical walk, discovering that this segment functions as the "B side" of the famous pilgrimage route. While the final 60 miles into Rome are crowded enough to earn the official Testimonium completion certificate, this northern stretch remains largely empty. Even in 2025, a Jubilee year that saw record numbers for the trail, only about 12,000 people completed the full journey, with an estimated 100,000 walking some portion of the 2,000-kilometer route annually. This stands in stark contrast to the Camino de Santiago, which issued over 530,000 completion certificates in the same period.
The experience required a shift from a light tourist approach to carrying all gear due to the lack of luggage ferry services on this specific leg. Despite initial struggles with inadequate equipment, the solitude proved rewarding, with only six other hikers encountered over several days. The journey offered intimate encounters with nature, including foraging for mint, blackberries, and chestnuts, alongside views of ancient olive groves and hilltop towns.
Dining along this route required no reservations and provided access to local cuisine without tourist crowds. Meals ranged from rustic seafood risotto in Seravezza to corn flour pasta in Massa, culminating at the Michelin-starred Locanda de' Banchieri in Sarzana. The trip highlighted the appeal of Franciacorta sparkling wine and the simple interactions with locals, such as an elderly driver offering a word of "Calma" while passing on the road. Ultimately, the walk demonstrated that avoiding the most picturesque, crowded sections can reveal a more authentic and peaceful Italy.
Sources: Outside.